It is a set of signal generators, a set of display and control. ![]() The operation of the circuit is divided into 3 sets. Try turning VR1 to adjust the speed of the running lights. We tried to assemble this circuit on a breadboard. R1, R2: 1.5K, 0.25W Resistors tolerance: 5%ī1: 9V battery or the 5V to 12V power supply IC2: CD4017, Decade counter with 10 Decoded Outputs IC The connecting LEDs to display in this circuit will see that is LED running two way from middel. The IC2 will then count the input signal continuously and output “1” to pins 3, 2, 4, 7, 10, 1, 5, 6, 9, and 11 respectively. Secondly, the counter receives that signal to the input(pin 14) of the IC2 decade counter. The signal output from pin 3 will be in a square waveform, which frequencies can be adjusted by VR1. The circuit may be easily divided into two sections as follows:įirst, the pulse signal generator section includes IC1-NE555, R1, VR1, C1, and C2. ![]() (Continue reading for a better understanding) How it works The difference is that the light starts from two ends and then meets in the middle, and both go back to the start, and the process is repeated. We modified it from the LED Chaser circuit. Here is a 12-LED light sequencer circuit using CD4017 and NE555 as main components. PS: Back in the day I didn't always have the money for things like a fully degreed balancer.and with the AMC/AMX that was almost something that could not be bought at any price.Related Posts Simple 12 LED light sequencer circuit You can use the factory timing tab to interpolate to every 2 degrees. Not exact, but close enough for most of us. Was very easy after that to check timing with a regular type light. Filled each dimple with a different color hobby paint (white.blue/red/yellow). Balancer was off the car for timing chain replacement, so it was fairly easy to do. Many (many) years ago I used a 1/8 inch drill bit and dimpled my AMX balancer as described above. That allows you to get very close with a regular timing light or with a "dial back" on zero advance mark. Mark balancer with masking tape and ink pen or ? to go from 0 to 40 degrees in intervals of 10 degrees. Then divide that by 36 to get the distance for 10 degrees. You can use a piece of masking tape and get the exact circumference of your balancer. I can do at 10 degrees BTDC because of the factory timing tab/mark, but how about others? ![]() The Actron was the brightest, and the Equus the dimmest.Īlways a good idea to check the "dial back". Both fired at zero, and worked fine at all RPMs. An older Craftsman Inductive pickup, and a cheap Equus Inductive pickup unit. I also tested my other 2 timing lights at the same time (both non "advance" type). of error is not a lot, it still can matter. would actually be 30 crank deg.Īctron set at 62 deg. would actually be 10 crank deg.Īctron set at 32 deg. In each case, if I added 2 degrees to the Actron setting as a correction factor, it would fire at the correct point.Īctron set at 12 deg. (48 crank).Īctron set on 60, Sun read 29 dist. (38 crank).Īctron set on 50, Sun read 24 dist. (28 crank).Īctron set on 40, Sun read 19 dist. (18 crank).Īctron set on 30, Sun read 14 dist. (8 crank).Īctron set on 20, Sun read 9 dist. ![]() When the Actron's advance dial was set on "0", Sun agreed "0".Īctron set on 10, Sun read 4 dist. In other words, 2 separate sets of tests. The Actron readings showed a consistent 2 degrees of error at all positions above zero, as tested both 500 & 1000 dist. I compared it's readings with a distributor on my Sun Machine, to check it's accuracy (firing a separate ignition coil to fire the Actron strobe/circuit). I have an Actron CP7528 (Inductive pickup with the advance dial). Beware that the adjustable advance lights are not necessarily accurate.
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